Days 10 and 11. Lowestoft to Wells to Grimsby

The 0400 start happened as planned - well 0415, but the intention was there - and we left Lowestoft under grey skies but surprisingly light for that time in the morning. Full sail up and a broad reach, the best angle of sailing for comfort and speed, down past the rather dull coast of Suffolk. Unfortunately we were punching into the fairly strong tide which was running the other way so slow progress was made even though the boat speed showed 6 to 7kn as we had the engine running as well, we were only making 3 to 4 over the ground but we expected this to change at 10am which it duly did and our speed picked up. The need for haste was that at Wells-next-the-sea, our destination and some 60 miles from Lowestoft,there is only a 2 hour window in which one can get a 6ft draught boat into the harbour, as it is over a huge sandbank and up a river. Unfortunately with the wind from the NW as we rounded the bulge of Norfolk the wind came more and more on the nose so we had to start tacking and tacking into the wind. This really wasn't in my passage plan and I started to worry about not hitting the tidal window at Wells. Then the wind dropped to nothing. So engine on and more motoring. My calculations said that we would be in time if we continued like that. BUT! The wind suddenly returned at 20 to 25kn from the direction we wanted to. Gamaldansk only has a little engine, not designed to punch her through the waves and wind. But what a stalwart she is! At full throttle, with steam and black smoke belching from the exhaust (don't tell Greenpeace) we made it to the Wells fairway bouy, where the harbour master was waiting to guide us in, with minutes and centimetres under the keel, to spare. Dave and Patrick were as relieved as me as they both had to be back in London for work and had no desire to continue to Grimsby!
Wells, apart from being a bugger to get in to, is a beautiful little fishing harbour in the middle of the flat North Norfolk salt-marsh. It may be called Wells-next-the-sea, but it should be called Wells-bloody-miles-from-the-sea. It took half an hour to get up the river! We were assisted in mooring next to the Albatross, a 19th century dutch sailing barge, now used as a restaurant and bar, although she sometimes is sailed still, by a mad Dutch chef who also own the boat.
I must give a mention to the harbour staff, who's names I didn't ask, who were incredibly helpful, both on the phone and in person.Thank you guys.
Having bade farewell to Dave and Patrick, Pete and I had a really chilled evening listening to music on board whilst I did nav stuff and Pete cooked up a mean chilli with garlic bread. Then a couple of pints in the nearby Golden Fleece and an early night, with the prospect of an 0500 start to get the tide out of Wells.
On the subject of Chez Caskey, I, and those who have been on board so far, are constantly amazed at the food, drink and other comforts that appear from Pete's kitchen. The only man I know who can cook up a storm, in a storm, and not be affected by sea-sickness or the fact that the boat is going up and down like a lift. Big respect!
We left Wells at 0500 as planned, to a beautiful sunrise. I managed to not run aground going down the river and over the sandbanks, which had been a big worry for me as there was no nice harbour master to show me the way out at that time in the morning. Luckily the fishing boats were leaving so I just followed them and got to sea with no incident.
The wind was set fair for our 55 mile run across to Grimsby and we had the best sail of the trip so far. A close reach with first reef in main and genoa, Wogan on the radio, a fair tide and bacon butties and tea from Chez Caskey. It was so nice to just sail, not have to run the engine for extra speed and no set arrival time to stick to. As it was we arrived early for the lock at the marina, which is open for two hour each side of high tide, so about two miles off we dropped the sails, put the engine and the kettle on, and spent an hour pottering up to the marina so we could get the lock whilst it was open and not have to pay a fee of ten quid. Tight or what?
Grimsby marina is in the middle of nowhere - well not nowhere, but in the middle of what is left of what was once the center of the British fishing industry. If you like maritime industrial it's the place for you. Good folk at the sailing club though. Good prices and friendly faces. Andy, the berthmaster, who was there to take our lines as we arrived, has already offered us a lift to the supermarket to get supplies and I'm using the clubs internet to do this. Thanks to them.
Pete and I get a day off tomorrow as I had anticipated an overnight run to Grimsby but as we left early we are now a day in hand. Looking forward to an early night and a lie in.
Thanks to Nico for his entertaining comment on the last blog. Have a read. Not quite sure what's happening with the comments - some have been e-mailed to me and some appear on the blog. I think you have to click on comment rather than the envelope.
Hi to everyone and thanks for reading. Keep in touch.